How to wear designer sneakers: with skirts, tailoring and denim

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Sneakers stopped being weekend shoes a long time ago. They now go to the office, to dinner and, increasingly, to weddings. But a sneaker that looks sharp with one outfit can look careless with another, and the difference almost always comes down to two things: the shape of the shoe and the proportions of what you wear with it. Here is how to choose the right pair and wear it well.

Slim or chunky: choose your shape

Slim terrace styles

Low, flat and narrow, with a thin gum or rubber sole and a suede or leather upper. These are the sneakers of the moment, worn everywhere from the office to the airport. Their low profile makes them the most versatile shape: they sit neatly under a wide trouser, look polished with a skirt and never overwhelm a small frame.

Clean leather court sneakers

The minimalist option: smooth white or off-white leather, a slim rubber cupsole and little or no visible branding. The closest thing to a sneaker you can wear with a suit, and the easiest to keep looking expensive.

Chunky designer trainers

Thick, layered soles, mixed materials and often bold logos or monograms. They make a statement and add height, but they need a little more thought: the volume of the shoe has to be balanced by the rest of the outfit.

With skirts

Sneakers with a skirt look modern when the proportions are deliberate. A slim sneaker pairs best with fluid and midi lengths; a chunky one needs a skirt with some structure.

With tailoring

Sneakers with a suit is no longer a rule break, as long as everything else is sharp. The trouser should be either cropped just above the ankle or wide enough to fall cleanly over the shoe.

With denim

Jeans and sneakers seem like the easiest combination, but the cut of the jean changes everything.

Straight and slim jeans

Wear them cropped or cuffed so the ankle shows. Any sneaker shape works, but a slim or court sneaker looks cleanest.

Wide-leg jeans

The hem should graze the top of the shoe or fall just past it. Chunky sneakers work especially well here, since the volume of the jean balances the volume of the sole.

Barrel and balloon jeans

These curved, roomy shapes look best with a slim, low sneaker that keeps the outfit from becoming too heavy at the bottom.

Choosing a color

White is the most versatile, but it is not the only option. Cream and off-white look softer and more expensive. Brown, burgundy and forest green suede pick up this season's warm colors. Black is easy but can look heavy with summer clothes. If you are buying one pair, choose a color that already appears in your wardrobe several times.

Sneakers for the occasion

At the office

Choose leather or suede over mesh, in white, cream, black or brown, and keep the rest of the outfit tailored. A clean court sneaker with wide trousers and a blazer reads as considered, not casual.

On the move

For travel, comfort counts most, but you can still look put together. A slim sneaker that slips on and off easily, soft knitwear, a long coat and a structured tote make the airport feel less like an ordeal.

At a wedding

Only where the dress code allows it, and only in spotless white leather. They work best with a relaxed suit or a fluid dress at a garden or city-hall wedding, and they are a smart change of shoes for the dance floor later in the evening.

How to keep them clean

Nothing undermines a designer sneaker faster than scuffs and grey laces. A few simple habits keep them looking new.

Before the first wear

Treat suede and nubuck with a protector spray, and let it dry completely. Smooth leather benefits from a thin layer of leather cream.

Every few wears

Wipe the soles and leather with a soft damp cloth. Brush suede with a suede brush to lift the nap and remove dust.

Stains and scuffs

Use a gentle sneaker cleaner and a soft brush, working in small circles, and never put leather or suede sneakers in the washing machine. A suede eraser handles most marks on suede.

Laces and storage

Wash laces separately or replace them; fresh laces make old sneakers look new. Store your sneakers with cedar shoe trees or stuffed with paper, away from direct sunlight, which yellows white leather and soles.

Rotate

Wearing the same pair every day wears it out faster. Rotating between two pairs lets each one dry out and keep its shape.

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